New deli serves up sandwiches with a side of nostalgia

CAIRO—There is something distinctly Cairo about the newest addition to the town’s food scene.

For Kayleigh “Iris” Dreste, the Cairo native behind Lu’s Chews Deli, the new operation inside Slater’s Smart Shop is an attempt to bring a little bit of the old Cairo back―one sandwich at a time.

Lu’s Chews offers the familiar fare one might expect from a deli: cold cuts, sandwiches, hot foods, breakfast and snacks. But Dreste has taken a reminiscent step of making the community itself part of the menu.

Many of the deli's signature sandwiches are named after notable local residents, turning what could have been an ordinary lunch counter into somewhat of an edible local history project.

And that, Dreste says, is precisely the point.

Dreste gives a nod to Justin Slater, founder of the original business associated with the building, with the Slater’s Smart Sub. It’s got turkey, roast beef, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, red peppers and deli dressing.

Then there is the Hempstead Hero, honoring former Police Chief Floyd Hempstead. It’s stacked with Black Forest ham, turkey, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, banana peppers, pickles, mustard, black pepper and oregano.

Other sandwiches are named for Allen Kligerman, Bill Wolfe, Joe Spencer and Tony Puorro.

And the name Lu’s Chews has a story all its own.

The “Lu” is a reference to Lucifer, Dreste’s beloved late cat. One of the deli's signature sandwiches, "The Best Boy," pays tribute to the adored pet who inspired its name and incorporates some of Dreste's own favorite ingredients. It comes with ham, chicken, American cheese, lettuce, tomato, banana peppers, onions and pickles, finished with olive oil, red wine vinegar and black pepper.

Customers don't have to feel locked into the combinations printed on the menu. In fact, Dreste encourages people to customize their sandwiches. The willingness to accommodate individual tastes is part of what makes a local deli different from a faceless chain, she says.

Lu’s Chews also prioritizes using fresh and quality products, including Boar’s Head meats and cheeses and bread from local area bakeries. Gluten free and vegan bread are also available.

For Dreste, the significance of the business goes deeper than food as Slater's Smart Shop was already familiar territory. She previously worked there when she was younger, back when the business was still owned by the Slater family and that experience left an impression―giving Cairo a stronger sense of community.

Lu's Chews, she says, is her attempt to help bring some of that feeling back.