Food for Thought: Cooking wild game

One subject that has been brought to my attention more than once is the cooking of wild game. I have to admit that I am not a hunter, but would always enjoy a nice piece of venison, rabbit or game bird. I have cooked all three both personally and professionally.  

I have eaten some other game and non-game meats over the years and actually enjoyed them all. That list includes wild salmon, turkey, frog, sea turtle, bear, wild boar and, yes, horse. The horse was prepared tartare―raw! Thinly sliced, seasoned and, yes, raw.

When preparing game and able to enjoy it, one must consider the cut, where the meat is taken from on the animal and must strongly consider the preparation. That preparation includes, but is not limited to, the environment which the animal was taken, the season when it was harvested, the way the animal was treated and the style of cooking that the chef is using.

Deer should be hung after meeting its demise and the skin should be quickly removed to subtract any gamey flavor from the finished product.  I prefer the backstrap and prepare it much the same way as a piece of pork or beef tenderloin.

Wild turkeys are usually breasted, using only the breast meat. I like to slow roast the breast with a smoked bacon drape, orange juice concentrate or cider, garlic, herbs and, during the last half hour in the oven, a half cup of bourbon.

Smaller game birds require a lighter touch while cooking, with butter, wine and herbs. Remember most game birds are low in fat content and require added fat to keep it tender, moist and flavorful. I use butter, olive oil and sometimes rendered pork fat.

One of my favorite game animals is rabbit. It really should be harvested in early winter when they have eaten well all summer and fall. The weather needs to be cold. This will reduce the chances of intestinal worms. Having said that, a well-prepared rabbit cacciatore or fricassee can be an incredible dish, even if the meat is purchased in a market. I like a lot of wine in my rabbit preparation, sometimes red for a heavier flavor, white if it is lighter and more delicate dish.

All game for the most part is earthy in nature and accepting of the many products we include in their preparation.  These include, but are not limited to, fresh garlic, scallions, various fats, wine, herbs and in some cases marination. If marinating, use plenty of the previous listed, along with a heavy hand of salt, pepper and an acid such as vinegar or fruit juices. Marinating, if required, should remove any concern for a gamey flavor and tenderize the meat as well.

When eating and cooking game, the biggest hurdle to overcome is your mindset. Mankind has dined on wild game for many, many years. Peasants and Kings alike have enjoyed the flavors of the forest. You first need to get past your preconceived ideas of what you are eating.  It can be a very unique and enjoyable meal―not Bambi and Thumper.  Sorry, but that is food for thought.

Paul Ventura is a retired local chef. He is the owner operator of Ventura's Catering and Cheesecakes. A Greenville resident for almost 65 years and past food service director for the Greenville Central School District for 27 years. He has his education from GCS, AAS from Mohawk Valley CC, BA from SUNY Albany and continuing education degree from the CIA in Hyde Park. He has been in the food service industry for over 54 years.

‍